August 20th – 24th
Biodynamic Wines
Rudolf Steiner“Before being good, a wine should be true.” – Nicolas Joly
Biodynamics is a complex agricultural practice that goes beyond our modern understanding of “organic” farming. It is a comprehensive philosophy based on a series of lectures by Rudolf Steiner in 1924, entitled Spiritual Foundations for the Renewal of Agriculture. This series was in response to Austrian farmers, who were noticing the declining vitality of their soil and change in their crops due to chemical fertilizers and pesticides.
Like organic farming, no chemical herbicides, pesticides or fertilizers are used. However, there are very several specific biodynamic techniques used to treat pests and combat problems in the vineyard. These techniques do not harm the natural balance and even add vitality to the soil. Compost is a major factor, and the microbial life in the soil is encouraged -- bringing plant, soil and animal life into a natural balance. The farm animal life, all of it -- meaning insects, mice, horses, sheep, farmer, etc – plays an important role: no noisy mechanical machinery is used in the vineyards, and cows and sheep naturally help reduce overgrown vegetation, plus their dung provides the primary source for compost. Everthing is hand harvested, and is bottled without fining or filtration.
The key to understanding Biodynamics is considering the farm in its entirety as a living system - seeing the farm as self sufficient, its own organism, a self-contained entity with its own individuality and its own specific needs. In addition, biodynamic agriculture sees the farm in the context of the wider pattern of lunar cycles, cosmic rhythms, celestial influences and its place in the spiritual world. Biodynamic farmers use lunar calendars in relation to specific tasks – applying compost, pruning, harvesting, even during cellar time.
“The Earth and plant life have rhythms in respect to their position to the moon, sun and stars. The earth inhales and exhales. High and low tides are great examples of the earth’s rhythms. Another example is the cycle of sap within vines. During periods of an ascending moon, the earth breathes out, and growth is focused above the soil. Sap flows upward. During a descending moon, the earth inhales, and sap is drawn downward into the soil. "
So what does this all mean? Why are many, many producers converting their vineyards? Why are so many of the world’s greatest wines made biodynamically?
Can you really taste the difference?
Biodynamic wines give an expression of the place, soil and microclimate all components of the French-term terroir, and when well-made, biodynamic wines are delicious, unique and really convey a true sense of place.
Biodynamic winemakers are very connected and committed to their land and their vines, ultimately making outstanding wine. Many began farming organically, and have fully converted to Biodynamic viticulture while others have taken bits and pieces to create their own system. There are standards that must be met for specific certifications, the most visible is Demeter, an international organization that upholds the criteria for biodynamic goods. Yet there are winemakers who do not feel the need to have a symbol on their wine; it is just how they farm.
All biodynamic winemakers communicate a philosophy: a love of balance in the natural world, resulting in dynamic wines that are expressive, complex and beautifully made – now that is something to celebrate!
Tasting Menu:
Biodynamic Wines and Tomatoes !
1st Pairing
"My
future work is all in the vineyard: making old massal selections for
vinestock, looking after the health of the oldest vines, and above all
trying to improve the quality of the roots. That work will never end."- Guy Bossard
Bossard. Loire, France. Muscadet. Sèvre-et-Maine. “Cuvée Classique” 2006, served with Fried Green Tomato, Miniature Succotash and Vermont Goat Cheese.
Grape: 100% Melon de Bourgogne
2nd Pairing
"If anyone embodies the promise and spirit of “The New
Spain” it is Alvaro Palacios....
widely considered to be the most important new Spanish winemaker
in a generation."Palacios Remondo. Rioja, Spain.“Placet Blanco” 2005, with Salt Cod Potato Cake, Heirloom Tomato Vinaigrette and Black Olive Tapenade.
Grape: 100% Viura
3rd Pairing
" When I meet someone, what do I want? I want what he has lived (his
vécu), his humanity; I do not want his genetic material. Why, when I
taste a wine, do you want me to taste its genotype and not its vécu?" -
Jean Marcel DeissMarcel Deiss. Alsace, France. Bergheim. 2005, with Crispy Veal Sweetbread Roulade, Chanterelles,
Red Zebras and Lemon-Caper Brown Butter.
Grape: 100% Pinot Blanc.
